Vastu Shastra Chapter 29 — Doors & Windows: Light, Air & Security

Why openings matter (more than “just a hole”)

Doors and windows choreograph how a house greets the world and breathes inside. The right entry sets tone—calm, safe, generous—before a single word is spoken. The right window turns stale air into breeze, glare into glow, and street noise into a hush. In Vastu, openings are how Air and Light move through Space while Earth (structure) stays steady. In building science, it’s geometry, seals, glass, and hardware that either cooperate or constantly complain. Get them right, and the home feels alert by day, secure by night, and quiet the whole time.

Vastu logic: entries & windows by quadrant

Main entry (front door):
- North/East: Traditionally most forgiving—gentle light, easy orientation for guests. Keep approach clean, well-lit, and uncluttered.
- North-East (NE): Powerful clarity corner; keep the door modest and the immediate inside visually light.
- West: Fine with sun/glare managed; use deeper porch/verandah and shading.
- South/South-West (SW): Heavier; if inherited, ground the lobby with solid materials, add a vestibule, and keep sightlines calm (see remedies).
Secondary/service entries: Prefer South/West edges near kitchen/utility so traffic doesn’t cross calm zones.
Windows:
- East: Morning light—great for studies, dining, prayer; control early glare with sheers.
- North: All-day soft light; excellent for workspaces and living rooms.
- West: Evening golden hour plus heat; exterior fins/awnings + interior blinds are mandatory.
- South: Strong sun in hot regions—pair with shading, low-e glass, and cross-vent routes.

Main door etiquette: approach, swing & first view

Approach path: Clear, well-lit, and slightly compress → release: a modest porch that opens into a brighter foyer calms arrivals.
Door swing: Inward swing preferred; ensure the door does not clip furniture or a stair tread. Provide 900–1000 mm clear landing inside.
First view: Let the eye land on light/art/green—not a bathroom/kitchen sink or a stair face. A short offset wall/console can reframe sightlines.
Threshold & sill: Slight bevel for accessibility, solid weather strip, and a doormat that actually traps grit.
Entry height & presence: Taller doors (2100–2400 mm) read dignified; frame with simple trim, not clutter.

Sizes & proportions that feel right

Main door width: 950–1200 mm (single leaf) or 900 mm + 300–450 mm side leaf. Height 2100–2400 mm.
Internal doors: Bedrooms/studies 820–900 mm; bathrooms 750–820 mm; utility 750–900 mm.
Window sill heights: Living/bedrooms 600–750 mm (seated view); kitchens 900–1050 mm above counter; bathrooms 1200 mm for privacy (use awning type).
Window head heights: Align at 2100–2400 mm for a clean elevation; high heads improve daylight penetration.
Openable area: Target ≥ 8–12% of floor area as openable window area for decent natural ventilation.

Window types & where they shine

Casement (side-hinged): Best for cross-vent; seals well; use restrictors for safety in high-rises.
Awning (top-hinged): Vent in rain; perfect for baths and monsoon climates; place high for privacy + stack effect.
Sliding: Space-saving, but lower airtightness; great with insect screens and when paired for wide openings.
Tilt-turn: Versatile (tilt for secure vent, turn for purge); good acoustic performance with proper gaskets.
Fixed: Bring light/views where wind is harsh or noise is high; pair with operables elsewhere for air.
Clerestory: High-level strip for daylight and stack ventilation; avoids glare and keeps privacy.
French/slide-fold doors: Merge balcony/courtyard; ensure threshold drains and bug screens for sanity.

Light & air: cross-vent, stack effect, glare control

Cross-vent planning: Pair openings on opposite walls or adjacent faces (inlet low, outlet high) to move air through—not just in.
Stack effect: A high awning/clerestory near stairs or in bathrooms pulls hot, moist air out; pair with low inlets.
Glare vs. glow: Use sheers on East/North; vertical blinds/roller shades for West; matte interior finishes opposite windows.
Daylight layers: Combine view windows (eye level) with clerestories (head-height) to spread light deep without hotspots.

Heat, sun & glazing: comfort that pays back

Low-E double glazing: Cuts heat gain/loss and glare; especially useful for large West/South openings and noisy roads (paired benefit: acoustics).
External shading first: Awnings, fins, pergolas, deep verandahs—stop sun outside; blinds inside are second line of defense.
Films: Selective solar-control films on existing glass; pair with sheer + blackout for day/night control.
Frames & gaskets: UPVC/thermally-broken aluminum/wood with quality weather seals; air leakage kills AC efficiency faster than bad glass.

Weather, water & dust: sealing the edges

Drip edges & sill slopes: Sill slope ~1:15–1:10; add a drip groove under external projections to keep rain off walls.
Gaskets & brushes: Door sweeps and compression gaskets stop dust and noise. Check annually; rubber ages.
Weep holes: Don’t block frame weep holes with sealant; they are the escape route for water that sneaks in.
Threshold drains: For balcony sliders, use a recessed linear drain or raised track with side drains; monsoon-proof the junction.

Noise & privacy: acoustics without cave vibes

Street-facing rooms: Use laminated/IGU glass, deeper air gaps, and properly sealed frames. Sound leaks at the edges, not the middle.
Doors: Solid-core for bedrooms/studies; perimeter seals + drop seals if privacy is critical.
Privacy glass: Frosted/acid-etched for baths and ground floors; switchable (electrochromic) where views are prized but modesty matters sometimes.

Locks, hardware & everyday safety

Entry set: 5-lever mortise or quality smart lock; 3 hinges (SS), hinge screws into frame and door; security strike plate with long screws into studs.
View & control: Door viewer + door-chain or latch; consider a small side-light with grill for conversations.
Windows: Lockable handles, restrictors on upper floors, tempered/laminated glass near floor level.
Child safety: No climbable grilles; restrict openings to < 100 mm gap where kids roam.

Mosquito & pest control without killing breeze

Screens: Fine SS/FRP mesh (18×16 or 20×20). Sliding/pleated systems for large doors; hinged for casements.
Maintenance: Vacuum monthly; wash quarterly. A dusty screen = half the breeze and double the sneezes.
Gaps: Seal utility penetrations; add door sweeps; keep balcony planters tidy to avoid breeding corners.

Kids & elders: rails, restrictors & reachable gear

Grill/guard height: 1050–1100 mm minimum at low sills; avoid horizontal “ladders”.
Restrictors: Fit limiters on upper-floor casements/awnings; allow purge vent without full opening.
Handle heights: 900–1050 mm to suit most adults; consider a secondary, lower latch for elders with limited reach.
Thresholds: Bevel to < 12 mm where walkers/wheelchairs pass; add tactile contrast strips for low vision.

Apartments & retrofits: tiny shells, tidy fixes

Builder sliders leaking? Retrofit new gaskets/brushes, re-slope exterior sill, and add a slim threshold drain.
Noisy road? Secondary internal window (add-on frame with laminated IGU) can add 15–20 dB reduction without changing the façade.
Dark core? Borrowed light via clerestory/transoms over doors; use frosted glass to keep privacy.
Heat from West? External shade + low-e film + interior blind; plant a green veil on the balcony.

Tricky situations & calm remedies

Main door in South-West

Issue: Feels heavy; can drag noise in.
Mitigate: Add a vestibule or offset entry, ground with stone/wood, keep first view on light/art, and ensure strong door seals.

Front and back doors aligned

Issue: Wind tunnel; energy “rushes through.”
Mitigate: Add a console/screen to break line of sight, stagger furniture, and use a heavier rug at the entry.

Windowless bathroom

Issue: Humidity and smells linger.
Mitigate: High awning to ducted lightwell where possible; otherwise, a quiet exhaust with timer and a louvered transfer grille at the door.

Bedroom window only to West

Fix: Films + exterior fins, sheers by day/blackout by night, and a small North/East clerestory if structure allows. Move bed out of direct glare.

Short story: the entry that stopped shouting

Priya’s main door opened straight into the living room—no pause, no hello, just street → sofa. South-West orientation added weight; evenings felt loud. We carved a 1.2 m vestibule with a side-light, moved the first view to a pale art wall, and fitted a solid-core door with three hinges and a drop seal. Outside, a small overhang and a plant softened the approach; inside, a console caught keys and grit. The room stopped flinching at every knock. Guests arrived, then entered—there’s a difference.

22-point doors & windows audit

1) Main door well-sited (N/E/NE ideal; W workable; SW mitigated).
2) Approach path lit; porch/vestibule calms entry.
3) First view lands on light/art, not clutter or WC.
4) Door widths/heights fit use; landings clear (≥ 900–1000 mm).
5) Window sills/heads aligned; openable area ≥ 8–12% of floor area.
6) Cross-vent paths planned (inlet–outlet pairing).
7) Glare managed (sheers East/North; blinds West/South).
8) External shading present where sun is harsh.
9) Low-E/laminated glass where heat/noise demand it.
10) Frames sealed; gaskets/sweeps intact; weep holes open.
11) Balcony thresholds drain; monsoon-proof sliders.
12) Acoustic strategy for street-facing rooms.
13) Solid-core interior doors for privacy zones.
14) Locks/hinges rated; strike plates anchored; peepholes present.
15) Window restrictors/guards where kids/elders present.
16) Screens installed & clean; mesh size suitable.
17) Thresholds beveled (< 12 mm) for accessibility.
18) Sightlines not aligned front-to-back; wind tunnel avoided.
19) Bathrooms get awnings/exhaust + transfer air.
20) Hardware heights ergonomic; handles graspable.
21) Maintenance calendar: seals yearly, hinges oiled, screens washed.
22) Openings feel safe, quiet, bright—no drafts, leaks, rattles.

FAQs

Is a North/East main door mandatory? No—just forgiving. West works with shading; South/SW can be calmed with a vestibule, strong seals, and grounded materials.

Sliding or casement windows? Casement seals and vents better; sliding saves space. In noisy or windy contexts, casement/tilt-turn usually wins.

Do double-glazed windows always help? They help most where heat or noise is real. In mild, quiet climates, good seals + shading can deliver 80% of the benefit.

How high should the sill be for a seated view? Around 600–750 mm gives a comfortable sightline from a sofa or bed while keeping furniture options open.

Best fix for leaky balcony sliders? Re-slope sill outward, add threshold drain, renew gaskets/brushes, and check frame plumb. Curtains don’t stop water; drains do.