Vastu Shastra Chapter 6 – Ayādi & Proportion (Measures that Make Spaces Feel Right)
Why proportion matters
Even without a measuring tape, your body knows when a room feels right. Proportion is the quiet math behind that feeling: the height that lets you breathe, the door that doesn’t make you duck, the stair your knee forgives after a long day. In Vastu, proportion supports the Mandala and the five elements by keeping the body at ease. When the measures are right, light and air do more with less, and rooms feel generous without wasting a single square foot.
Logic box: Proportion reduces micro-stress—fewer stumbles, fewer awkward turns, less glare—and frees up attention for what homes are actually for: rest, work, food, and company.
Ayādi in one page (classical idea, modern use)
Ayādi is the classical framework of measure and proportion found in texts like Mayamata and Manasara. In practice, it says: choose harmonious dimensions, keep the center (Brahmasthana) free of heavy intrusion, and scale openings so the house “breathes” correctly. Traditional craftspeople used human-centric units and rhythmic ratios rather than arbitrary numbers.
- Use today: Keep the spirit—human-scaled, rhythmically related, function-first—and translate into clean metric sizes that pass building codes and ergonomic sense.
- What not to do: Don’t turn Ayādi into numerology theatre. If a size fails ergonomics, it fails Vastu. Comfort is the calibration.
Traditional units vs. metric (quick conversions)
Classical measures varied by region and the master’s “span.” Use these as guides, not gospel, and finalize in metric:
- Angula (finger breadth): ~18–24 mm (use 20 mm as a planning rough-cut)
- Hasta (cubit): 24 Angulas ≈ ~480 mm (use 480–500 mm module)
- Danda: 4 Hastas ≈ ~1.92 m
Modern shortcut: Pick a base module that suits materials and local practice—300 mm or 450 mm works beautifully—and design major dimensions as multiples. Your site team will thank you in bricks, tiles, and time.
Design modules & grids (your secret weapon)
Module = repeatable unit that keeps chaos out of construction. Once you pick it (say, 300 mm), align walls, doors, windows, steps, and cabinet widths to that rhythm.
- Why it helps: Fewer odd cuts, cleaner lines, cheaper finishing. The eye reads rhythm as calm.
- How to deploy: Draw a light modular grid over your plan (e.g., 300 mm). Snap key dimensions to it: room lengths, door widths, stair treads.
- Pro tip: Combine with the Mandala’s thirds—many beautiful proportions fall at natural third lines plus modular rounding.
Room proportions that behave
Room shape affects furniture layout, daylight reach, and echo. Aim for rectangles that feel purposeful, not corridors pretending to be rooms.
- Gentle ratios: Length:Width ≈ 1:1.2 to 1:1.6. Squares work for small studies/pooja; living rooms prefer light rectangles.
- Compact bedrooms: 3.0 × 3.6 m (queen possible); better at 3.3 × 3.9 m; circulation clear on one side of bed.
- Living rooms: 3.6 × 5.1 m (sofa + two chairs + TV at sane distance) or 4.2 × 5.4 m for larger families.
- Dining: 3.0 × 3.0 m fits a 4-seater; 3.3 × 3.9 m fits a 6-seater with circulation.
- Study: 2.4 × 3.0 m works if storage uses vertical space and the desk faces East/North.
- Bathrooms: 1.2 × 2.1 m (tight), 1.5 × 2.4 m (comfortable, separate shower zone).
Doors: height, width, and the feeling of welcome
Doors are psychological. Too low = ducking and doubt; too narrow = rush-hour bottleneck.
- Main door height: 2.2–2.4 m (higher if ceiling allows). Width 0.9–1.2 m for single leaf; 1.2–1.5 m for double leaf with one active panel.
- Internal doors: Height 2.1–2.2 m. Widths: bedrooms 0.9 m; bathrooms 0.75–0.8 m; store/utility 0.75–0.9 m.
- Position on wall: Avoid comically hugging corners; leave 300–450 mm from adjacent wall for switches and trim.
- Head heights aligned: Keep door head heights consistent across a corridor—rhythm reads as calm.
- Thresholds: Flush for accessibility; if using a strip, keep it subtle, non-slip, and meaningful, not a trip hazard.
Windows: daylight, ventilation & size cues
Right-sized windows do two jobs at once: light the room and let it breathe. Oversized glazing with poor shading is glare; tiny windows are a slow headache.
- Daylight area: As a starting point, window glass area ≈ 15–25% of floor area, tuned by orientation and shading.
- Sill heights: Living/bedrooms 600–750 mm (let you sit with a view); kitchens 900–1050 mm over counters; bathrooms 1500–1800 mm (privacy).
- Head heights: Align with door heads where possible (e.g., 2.1–2.2 m) for a tidy skyline inside.
- Operation: Prioritize operable sections in NW and cross-vent pairs for summer comfort.
- Shading: East needs light filtering; West and South need deeper shade (louvers, fins, trees). Vastu loves light; your eyes love shade.
Ceiling heights: air, light, and calm
Height is where generosity hides. You don’t need a palace; you need enough air above your head to relax.
- Comfort range: 2.9–3.1 m floor-to-floor; net clear 2.6–2.8 m after slab and services.
- Small apartments: Net clear of 2.55 m can feel fine if daylight is honest and the center stays uncluttered.
- Feature ceilings: If beams force a drop, drop adjacent bands so it reads continuous, not like a lonely beam across the room.
Stairs: comfort math (2R + T) made friendly
Stair comfort is measurable. Use the golden rule: 2R + T = 600–650 mm (R = riser height, T = tread depth).
- Riser (R): 150–170 mm (home sweet spot ≈ 160 mm).
- Tread (T): 260–300 mm (home sweet spot ≈ 280 mm). Add 20–25 mm nosing if open-riser look is not used.
- Width: Single-flight homes 900–1000 mm min; more if you move furniture often.
- Handrail: Top at 900–1000 mm from tread; continuous, graspable; no sharp breaks.
- Headroom: Clear 2.1 m minimum.
- Landings: Depth ≈ width of stair; give a landing at each 12–14 risers to rest the body.
- Odd steps? Tradition likes odd counts. If it fits the math and structure, fine; comfort and safety come first.
Field hack: Walk test. If you naturally fall into a rhythm without staring at your feet, the stair is sized right.
Kitchen & bath ergonomics (heights that help)
These rooms run on repetition; a few millimetres make or break comfort.
- Kitchen counter: 840–900 mm (pick by primary cook’s elbow height; aim ~100–120 mm below elbow).
- Upper cabinets: Bottom at 1350–1500 mm from floor; 500–600 mm above counter for appliance clearance.
- Hob to chimney: 650–750 mm, per manufacturer specs.
- Sink depth: 200–230 mm (deeper splashes more, shallower is messy).
- WC height (top): 400–430 mm from floor; wall-hung bowls help cleaning and set exact heights.
- Basin height: 820–860 mm; mirror center ~1500–1600 mm from floor.
- Shower area: 900 × 1200 mm feels decent; slope to drain 1:60 to 1:80.
Corridors & circulation widths
Circulation is where homes win or lose their daily mood. Pinched paths equal background stress.
- Main passage: 1000–1200 mm (two people pass without twist).
- Bedroom side aisles: 600–750 mm clear each side of bed; at least one side at 750 mm for comfort.
- Door clearances: Keep 300–450 mm from a corner for switches and to avoid knuckle-busting.
Short story: the pretty house that felt small
Prisha’s villa looked perfect in photos and felt cramped in person. Nothing was “wrong” with Vastu zones; the problem was proportion. Doors were 2.0 m high and visually chopped the corridor; the stair had 180 mm risers and 240 mm treads—aggressive to climb and awkward to descend; the living room was a long 3.0 × 6.6 m “bowling alley” with a 2.45 m ceiling. We didn’t rebuild. We raised door heads to 2.2 m and aligned windows to match; we recalculated the stair to 160 mm risers and 280 mm treads with a mid-landing; we borrowed 150 mm of kitchen ceiling depth to let the living hit 2.6 m net, and rotated the sofa to create two zones instead of one lane. Same square meters, new experience: airier, kinder, and suddenly social. Proportion is that quiet.
Proportion checklist
- My key dimensions snap to a clear module (300 or 450 mm).
- Room ratios sit between 1:1 and 1:1.6; no corridor-rooms.
- Main door ≥ 2.2 m high and 0.9–1.2 m wide; heads align along corridors.
- Windows give ~15–25% glass-to-floor area with shading by orientation.
- Ceiling net clear ≥ 2.6 m in main areas (or strong daylight if 2.55 m).
- Stairs follow 2R + T ≈ 600–650 mm; headroom ≥ 2.1 m; landing every 12–14 risers.
- Kitchen counter height suits the primary cook; hob–chimney distance per spec.
- Circulation widths: passages ≥ 1.0 m; bed side aisles ≥ 0.6–0.75 m.
FAQs
Is there a “lucky” door size? Lucky is a door that doesn’t make you duck or bump shoulders. Use Vastu’s spirit—welcome, rhythm, and clarity—and size to modern ergonomics. That’s the luck you can count on.
Do I need to use Angulas exactly? No. Respect the idea—human-centric rhythm—and express it in metric modules that suit materials and code.
My stair can’t fit the perfect formula. Stay inside comfort ranges and keep steps consistent. A small landing and good handrails beat fancy math that fights the body.
Our ceilings are low (2.5 m net). Any hope? Yes: honest daylight, lighter upper walls/ceiling, aligned door/window heads, and a clutter-free center will make it feel taller.